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Elegant Entertaining

by Christina Pirello

It’s the holiday season...and it’s party time. How about throwing an elegant dinner celebration? I know what you’re thinking. With all of the holiday obligations mounded on top of our day-to-day stuff, we can just about get dinner handled each night. At best, we’re lucky if we can keep all the little balls in the air until the New Year.

But deep inside all of us is a five-star chef, with a touch of Martha Stewart. We all envision the perfect meal being served on a beautifully set table. We’re dying to be the calm, collected host who has created the ultimate dinner party.

Well, breathe out. Creating a lovely party evening is not as complicated as we’d like to think. With a bit of thought, you can host a stylish event that you’ll actually enjoy. Party planning is exactly that, planning. From choosing the date to creating the menu, thoughtful planning will be the difference between an event that sails along effortlessly and an event that leaves you wondering why you have to entertain all your stupid friends anyway.

When I plan a dinner party, I make a list--it’s the only time in my life that I do. From the centerpiece to music, I write down everything that must be done and begin at the beginning. What do I want this dinner to look like? Is there a theme? A color that I want to carry through the evening? How many friends will gather for the evening?

For me, I like to max out at eight people. With that as the high end number, I can manage the cooking easily; clean-up won’t take six days; the party will maintain a sense of intimacy, but be exciting at the same time. I think in terms of a countdown to the big evening. Once the date is chosen, a timeline begins to fall into place for me.

One month ahead, I set the date, giving me plenty of time to send out invitations, decide if I’ll need any help. During the holidays, there are lots of options for guests, so the more notice the better. Then I sort of forget about the evening for a couple of weeks.

A week before the party, I plan my menu, looking at availability of food of the season and designing my meal around what will be freshest and most delicious. Once that’s completed, I shop for all my non-perishables--wine, place cards, candles, any decorations I may want to use. I also take the time to clean and press any linens I might be using, so I don’t have to worry about it at the last minute.

Two days before the party, I clean the house and begin getting it ready for the party. I buy and arrange the flowers, create my centerpiece. This one’s important...the centerpiece is not meant to be a distraction or an obstacle in the center of the table.

From a simple spray of flowers to an beautiful tray with three perfect pears or a few candles with seasonal greens, the centerpiece is meant to complement the table, not overshadow the food and guests. Keep it simple and elegant. Finally, I finish most of the shopping--all the perishables that will come together to create the meal.

The day before my dinner is the most important for me. I pick up the final ingredients--fresh bread, any delicate herbs, etc. I spend a good part of the day preparing any dishes that can be worked on ahead of time--hors d’oeuvres, desserts, preparing ingredients for assembly into dishes the next evening. I set the table the night before the event, including place cards and usually arrange for a take-away dinner, so that I don’t have to stop work to prepare a meal at home.

The morning of the party, I set out all my serving platters and utensils, matching dishes to recipes, based on textures, colors and presentation. I relive my restaurant training and prep all ingredients that I will be using to create the meal, placing them in containers in the refrigerator until I am ready to cook. From mincing garlic to toasting nuts, the more I can do ahead, the calmer I will be as the time draws near for me to prepare the meal.

The afternoon of the party finds me cooking whatever dishes can be prepared ahead and cleaning up the kitchen. If the kitchen is neat and orderly, then I’ll be calm and cool when I get ready to make the last minute dishes as my friends arrive. If all goes well, I give myself plenty of time to relax, take a hot bubble bath and get ready for the big night.

As the magic hour approaches, I return to the kitchen to begin preparation of the more delicate dishes of the evening, along with the assembly of others, adding finishing touches where needed. About thirty minutes before the party is set to begin, I light the candles, turn on the music, open the wine and make one final sweep of the room to check on everything. By the time the guests arrive, my kitchen and I are calm and ordered, ready to enjoy the evening.

The holidays are said to be a time that brings out the best in us. Heaven knows we need it this year. Try these ideas to give your party profound meaning and to promote kindness in your own community. Make your party favors into just that--favors. Ask each guest to bring a newly wrapped toy to donate to a children’s hospital...or better yet, some new books.

Place a cup at each place at the table for the guests to make a donation, with all proceeds going to a charity or relief fund. At each place setting, lay a folded name card, inside describing a charitable act--from shoveling snow for a neighbor, to visiting a sick friend, to simply smiling at a stranger or carrying someone’s groceries. All hearts at table will swell with the sentiment of the season and your celebration will take on a sweet tenderness that each guest will take with them out into the world.

And now...dinner...

Menu

Chipotle Hummus on Toasted Bread

Fig and Walnut Tapenade on Daikon Rounds

Creamy Parsnip Bisque with Hazelnut Pesto

Polenta Triangles with Rosemary

Seitan and Root Vegetable Stew

Broiled Apples and Pears with Watercress

Lemony Endive Salad

Pear and Fig Strudel with Ginger Cream

Sparkling Peach Cocktails

 

Chipotle Hummus on Toasted Bread

2, 15-ounce cans organic chickpeas, drained, rinsed well
1/3 cup sesame tahini
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons brown rice syrup
½ (one half) chipotle chile, split, seeded, finely minced
2 cloves fresh garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/3 cup minced, fresh parsley
2 whole grain baguettes, sliced into one half-inch rounds
½ (one half) red bell pepper, roasted over an open flame, peeled, seeded, minced, for garnish

Combine beans, tahini, lemon juice, oil, syrup, chile, garlic and cumin in a food processor or blender. Pulse until smooth, slowly adding water to achieve a thick, creamy consistency. Transfer to a mixing bowl and season to taste with salt. Stir in parsley. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Preheat oven to 400o and line a baking sheet with parchment. Arrange bread slices on sheet and drizzle lightly with oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake until crisp, 7-10 minutes. Spoon hummus generously onto toast slices and garnish with roasted pepper. Makes 15-20 servings.

Note: Hummus can be made a day or two before the party and refrigerated. The toast is best made just before serving.

Fig and Walnut Tapenade on Daikon Rounds

1 cup minced, stemmed, dried figs
1/3 cup spring or filtered water
½ (one half) cup coarsely chopped oil-cured black olives
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
½ (one half) tablespoon capers, drained, but not rinsed, minced
1 ½ (one half) teaspoons minced, fresh parsley
sea salt
½ (one half) cup walnut pieces, lightly pan toasted
20-30 1/4-inch thick daikon rounds

To prepare the tapenade, combine figs and water in a sauce pan. Cook over medium heat, uncovered, until the figs are soft and the water has dissipated, 7-10 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in olives, vinegar, capers and parsley. Season to taste with salt (remembering that the olives and capers will flavor with salt). Mix well to combine. Set aside.

Pan toast the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook daikon rounds until crisp-tender, 4-6 minutes. Drain and arrange on a platter. Cover and chill completely.

To serve, arrange daikon rounds around the rim of a platter. Just before serving, fold walnuts into tapenade and mound in the center of the platter, allowing guests to serve themselves. Makes 10-15 servings.

Note: The tapenade can be made a couple of days in advance of the party, but do not stir in the nuts until serving time, as they will get soft. The daikon can be cooked the morning of the party. You may also choose to serve the tapenade already mounded on the cooked daikon for a more elegant presentation.

Creamy Parsnip Bisque with Hazelnut Pesto

1 onion, diced
1 small leek, split lengthwise, rinsed well, diced
6-8 parsnips, diced
3 cups plain rice or soy milk
3 cups spring or filtered water
1/4 cup mirin or white wine
2 ½ (one half) teaspoons white miso
small bunch fresh parsley, minced for garnish
hazelnut pesto
1 cup hazelnuts, oven toasted, skinned
1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves
1 cup loosely packed fresh Italian flat leaf parsley leaves
3 shallots, diced
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons white miso
2 teaspoons umeboshi vinegar or fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon brown rice syrup

Layer vegetables in a soup pot in the order listed. Gently add rice or soy milk, water and mirin. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until parsnips are quite soft, about 30 minutes. Remove a small amount of broth, dissolve miso and stir into soup. Simmer, uncovered, for 3-4 minutes to activate enzyme activity.

While the soup cooks, make the pesto. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and puree until smooth. You will have more pesto that you may need for this recipe. It will keep, refrigerated, for about a week.

Transfer soup, by ladles, through a chinois or food mill, to create a smooth puree. Return to pot and simmer for 1 minute. Serve, garnished with a generous dollop of pesto and sprinkled with minced parsley. Makes 6-8 servings.

Note: To roast hazelnuts, arrange nuts on a baking sheet and bake at 325o for about 15-20 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer nuts to a paper sack and allow skins to loosen in the steam or about 10 minutes. Then rub nuts in a towel to remove the skins.

Both these recipes can be made the day before the party and the soup simply re-heated. Just let the pesto come to room temperature.

Polenta Triangles with Rosemary

5 cups spring or filtered water
pinch sea salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup yellow corn grits
1 teaspoon dried rosemary, ground

Combine all ingredients (reserving one tablespoon oil) in a large sauce pan and whisk briskly to combine. Over medium heat, begin cooking polenta, stirring constantly. When the mixture boils, reduce heat to low and continue to cook, stirring frequently to prevent lumps. When the center of the polenta bursts, spoon into a lightly oiled, shallow baking dish. Set aside to cool until set, about an hour.

To serve, preheat the broiler to high and line a baking sheet with parchment. Cut the polenta into 3-inch triangles. Transfer to baking sheet and drizzle with remaining oil. Place polenta under the broiler and cook until the edges brown, 3-5 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 8-10 triangles.

Note: Polenta may be cooked the morning of the dinner party, but the broiling stage is best done just before serving.

Seitan and Root Vegetable Stew

light olive oil
yellow cornmeal
sea salt
1 pound seitan, cut into bite-size pieces
2 yellow onions, thick wedges
2 carrots, large irregular chunks
2 parsnips, large irregular chunks
2 cups 1-inch cubes winter squash (buttercup is best)
1/4 cup mirin
spring or filtered water
2 small handfuls green beans, tips trimmed, left whole
1-2 tablespoons kuzu or arrowroot
small handful fresh parsley, finely minced, for garnish

Heat about 2 inches oil in a deep sauce pan, over medium heat. While the oil heats, combine cornmeal with a generous pinch of salt and cut the seitan. Dredge the seitan in cornmeal. When the oil is hot, fry the seitan until it is golden and crispy. Drain on paper and set aside while preparing the vegetables.

In a heavy pot (I prefer clay, if possible), layer the onion, carrot and parsnips. Add a generous pinch of salt and about a cup of water. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and cook until the parsnips are just tender, not soft. Add squash, mirin, more water, if needed and another generous pinch of salt. Cover and cook until squash is tender. Add the fried seitan, but do not stir. Add green beans, season to taste with salt, cover and cook until the green beans are bright green and tender. Dissolve kuzu in a small amount of cold water, stir in and continue to stir gently until the kuzu thickens and clears, forming a shiny glaze over the stew. (The amount of kuzu needed will depend on the amount of liquid left in the stew--more liquid, more kuzu; less liquid, less kuzu.)

If cooking in a clay pot, the stew can go from stove top to table. Simply stir in some parsley. If cooked in a heavy pot, transfer stew to a serving bowl and garnish with parsley. Makes 5-6 servings.

Note: Heat the oil over medium-low heat to insure it is hot through and through. You know the oil is ready when patterns appear on the bottom of the pan or if you submerge chopsticks in the oil, bubbles gather.

The seitan can be fried the morning of the party and chilled. The stew is best if made an hour before dinner and served freshly cooked.

Broiled Apples and Pears with Rosemary

3 Granny Smith apples, cored, seeded, cut into small chunks (leave peel on)
3 ripe pears, cored, seeded, cut into small chunks (leave peel on)
sea salt
rind of 2 fresh lemons
extra virgin olive oil
barley malt
juice of 1 lemon

Preheat the broiler to medium.

Place apples and pears in a mixing bowl. Add a light sprinkle of salt and lemon rind. Drizzle lightly with oil and generously with barley malt. Mix gently to coat. Transfer fruit mixture to a shallow baking dish, avoiding too much overlap. Place fruit under broiler, uncovered, to broil until tender. When the fruit softens, raise the broiler temperature to high to brown the fruit. Pay attention at this point, as the fruit will burn easily. Remove fruit from broiler and gently stir in lemon juice. Transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately. Makes 6-8 servings.

Note: The apples and pears can be prepped and dressed the afternoon of the party, but this is a dish that tastes best when served fresh from the broiler.

Lemony Endive Salad

4 Belgian endive, bottoms trimmed, leaves separated
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt
juice of 2 lemons

Place endive leaves in a mixing bowl and drizzle generously with oil. Season to taste with salt and add lemon juice. Stir to coat the leaves and chill thoroughly. To serve, arrange on a large salad platter or on individual salad plates. Makes 6-8 servings.

Note: This salad can be prepared the morning of the party and chilled throughout the day.

Pear and Fig Strudel with Ginger Cream

3 ripe pears, cored, seeded, diced
10-12 dried figs, soaked until soft, diced
2 tablespoons arrowroot
light olive oil
granulated maple syrup
3 sheets thawed phyllo dough

Ginger Cream

2 cups vanilla soymilk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ (one half) teaspoon powdered ginger
2 tablespoons kuzu or arrowroot
candied ginger
1/4 cup brown rice syrup
20-24 thin slices fresh ginger, fine matchsticks

Preheat oven to 350o and line a baking sheet with parchment.

Combine pears and figs in a mixing bowl. Add arrowroot, 2 tablespoons oil and 3 tablespoons maple granules to the mixture. Toss to coat the fruit. Set aside.

Lay out one sheet of phyllo on a dry work surface. Brush lightly with oil and sprinkle with maple granules. Repeat with the remaining sheets of phyllo. On the long side, closest to you, mound the fruit mixture, going from one end to the other, leaving about an inch at each end. Roll, jelly-roll style, tucking in the outer edges, wrapping the fruit in phyllo. Place on the baking sheet, seam side down. Using a sharp knife, cut deep slits, marking slices and allowing steam to release. Bake until the dough is crispy and golden and the fruit is tender, about 45 minutes.

While the strudel bakes, combine Blend, vanilla and ginger in a sauce pan. Warm through over low heat. When warmed through, dissolve kuzu in a small amount of cold water. Stir into ginger mixture and stir until the cream thickens, about 4 minutes. Set aside.

When the strudel is close to done, combine rice syrup and ginger in a small sauce pan and bring to a high boil over high heat. Cook for 1-2 minutes.

Remove strudel from oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with a dollop of ginger cream and some candied ginger slices. Makes up to 12 servings.

Note: The ginger cream can be made the day before or morning of the party and chilled. You’ll just need to loosen it with a whisk for serving. The strudel filling can be made the afternoon of the party and chilled, but the strudel itself is best if you can put it in the oven as you sit down to dinner and served warm. The candied ginger is best made just before serving.

Sparkling Peach Cocktails

1 quart natural, unsweetened peach juice
1 quart sparkling water
lemon slices

Chill juice and water thoroughly. Mix individual servings. Serve with lemon slices.

To make this cocktail more festive, use champagne in place of sparkling water and lemon slices. Chill, mix and serve in champagne flutes. Makes 8-10 servings.

Note: It’s best to make this beverage as needed.

 
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